Dean Kissick on Balenciaga.
“A shot of happy Balenciaga models on a long-sleeve T-shirt is also very like a stock image. The whole show is a collection of stock images come to life, as such it brings to mind another of the dominant creative influences of the decade, New York’s DIS art collective, who built their whole aesthetic around stock images, taking groups of well-groomed men in suits, young people in chinos and blonde girls in pink velour and making them uncanny. Demna did the same in his show by giving Bella Hadid — who stars also on these pages — sharp prosthetic cheekbones over deep shadowy hollows. Other models had their lips blown up to exaggerated proportions. The whole look, from the geometric cuts of the tailoring to the augmented faces, is prosthetic. At the end of the last decade, in his final show, Alexander McQueen sent strange alien creatures down the catwalk in otherworldly garms. Now, at the end of this one, Demna suggests that the aliens were us all along; that we’re the weirdest things out there.”