What It’s Really Like to Live on Bitcoin in the Middle East
Syrian developer Ghass Mo has been living off freelance bitcoin gigs from Kurdistan, Iraq, for nearly two years.
“I get paid in bitcoin for doing work on open-source projects related to the cryptocurrency industry,” Mo said. “The first programmer I met was Amir Taaki. … I learned a lot from him and he was supporting me.”
It’s impossible to say how many people are like Mo, inspired by a chance meeting with a bitcoiner to embark on an educational journey toward financial sovereignty. These cases are often isolated, at least in the developing world. Yet, they are increasingly familiar to people who work with digital nomads. They are showing bitcoin can work as intended, as a global currency without borders.
Read more: Bitcoin in Emerging Markets: The Middle East
Mo left Syria in his early 20s because of the civil war and became an unbanked migrant worker to support his family. This may sound bleak but Mo has a lot in common with the other developers he now works with online.
He is a quiet man, a self-taught developer who rarely leaves his chosen Batcave except for shopping and rare outings. Mo has a perpetual five o’clock shadow and a minimalist home office setup, with just a few laptops, a monitor and always a cup of Arabic coffee. He’s never met most of the people he works with online, nor does he know of any local bitcoin meetups. He spends his evenings reading about Rust and studying at home with books like “Mastering Bitcoin.”
“The ongoing war in Syria and lack of stability affected me,” he said. “Sometimes I spend months trying to finish an online course, translating every single word [from English]. … The people [I know] interested in this field of study could be counted on one hand.”
Getting by
Like many other freelance developers earning bitcoin across the Middle East, Mo liquidates his bitcoin through a local exchange to pay for daily expenses. A local grad student who founded the Kurdcoin exchange, who asked to stay anonymous, has been operating a hawala-adjacent business for customers like Mo since 2017.
Hawala is a traditional money network used to send value across the Islamic world for hundreds of years, long before bitcoin. Thanks to partnerships with long-standing hawala businesses, bitcoin has merely become another option offered by such money changers. This is very accessible to local people with a wide range of computer skills and access.
“Facebook is our primary source for discovery for new clients. Word of mouth is the second,” said the anonymous exchange founder. “We also sell hardware wallets ourselves. We recently started this service, we’ve sold 10 in Iraq, and it’s increasing.”
Read more: How Bitcoin Fits Into Lebanon’s Banking Crisis
Mo and users like him can message the Kurdcoin accounts on social media, including Telegram, Twitter or Instagram. The exchange is supported by a staff of 10 people. Clients can pay online with bitcoin and pick up their cash at almost any local hawala business from Syria to Kurdish Iran. Mo also uses bitcoin to send money to his family.